Christmas Day

Thank You GYC and Feliz Navidad!!

After looking at the Christmas packages nicely put together by members of the GYC, we had to resist opening them all at once. So we followed the directions to the T and opened them accordingly. We were thrilled to have some mementos from home as well as some lovely Christmas decorations, CDs, and cards to name a few things. It has definitely added the Christmas cheer on Kewao! The Christmas lights were also a nice touch as we lined them along the top of the boom. Thank you to all those who took the time to put this together and we wish you all a Feliz Navidad from Kewao!!

Thanks,
Tom, Pam and Marilyn

Christmas in Mazatlan

Marilyn joined Tom and Pam for Christmas in Mexico. She arrived on the 14th of Dec. and will be staying until New Years. Looks like it's warmer there than here in the NW!!

Mazatlan, MX - December 2008

Mazatlan

Some light sailing and much motoring brought us to El Cid Marina. . A resort with its bars, pools and restaurants, we treated ourselves to Christmas and New Years Eve here. A favourite marina among Canadians, we now met the boats we have heard on the VHF from Cabo onwards. Periccles, a boat from Comox, spent much time showing us around Mazatlan as its their second visit here and my, this helped. As Tom pinched a nerve in his back giving him trouble with his leg, we arrived here earlier than planned and will continue to rest and relax here. Fortunately, his leg is improving. Mazatlan is a large, busy city with much to offer. The local buses and pulmonias (like golf carts) fly through the streets into Old Town which has the cobbled narrow streets and 18th century buildings. The central plaza is filled with families, artists, food and bars. A stunning, old theatre joins the plaza. We will attend a Mariachi band Christmas concert there! Its sold out as this band is famous here!? After New Years, we plan to head "south". We wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy new Year!

Los Frailles, MX - November 2008

Los Frailes

Forty five miles north of Cabo San Lucas is a pretty, sandy cove with good protected anchorage that acts as a place for those going further North eventually to La Paz or for those crossing the Sea of Cortes for 166 miles to Mazatlan. Our sail to Los Frailes was a BEAT. What! We had not been beating since we left the Strait of Georgia. In went the dodger windows and we settled into 15-20 kts with slightly steeper seas than the Strait of Georgia (Its shallow here). A comfortable sail, we realized our years of beating in Georgia Strait were evident. We watched a ketch power sail into this sea and knew we had a more comfortable ride. On shore we could see several tents and learned some university students were here studying turtles. Again, good warm water for swimming was here.

Cabo San Lucas, MX November 2008

Cabo San Lucas

The sailing to Cabo was wonderful. Cruising shoot, main, jib were all put to use day after day in warm winds varying from 10 to 20 knots. With Martin Pengelly along as crew, we were able to travel several days at a time with good rests.

A Bonita was our only fish along the way as we lost our two lures in what was prime fishing country! Stops at Bahia de Tortogas and Bahia de Santa Maria broke up this 800 mile run.

Bahia de Tortogas is described as “coyote ugly” and this is a compliment. We had heard in San Diego that the two diesel fuel men who bring very small barges of fuel to your boat were at odds and that one (Gordo) was known to flagrantly cheat while (Annabelles---Enrique) was slightly better. Each came to the boat to tell us how dreadful the other was. Fortunately, we needed little fuel so went with good, clean fuel from Annabelles. The town is poor, very dusty with fishing (and fuel) as limited work.

Bahia de Santa Maria is a large, beautiful bay bigger than English Bay but surrounded by a sandy low shore that blocks the swell. A lonely hill at one side holds several small huts and fishing pangas. We bartered for two fish trading a tin of Spam, corned beef and coke. These two round flat “Tiger fish” were the toughest we’ve ever tasted! We know who got the better deal. The swim in lovely green coloured water was warm and relaxing.

FINALLY!! Cabo San Lucas

Rounding Cape Falso and Cabo San Lucas was a monumental event. The armada of early morning charter fishing boats roared past us as we approached the arches and hole in the rock and added to our excitement. The temptation to sail through the Arches soon passes for the size of the Pinnacle, Arches and other reddish brown rocks is immense. Sitting at anchor (since a daily rate at a marina was $131.00 US), we were entertained each evening with four hotel bands and three to four boat tours’ bands. The shore was always a maze of lights. The day was filled with pangas whirling around us along with water taxis and jet skis buzzing us all afternoon. Still we managed to enjoy this vibrant place as the noise and action all seemed to fit. We swam off the boat and beach, walked the malecon, saw that the Margaritaville bar no longer existed, and walked some of the town. Martin left this warm, sunny climate to return to Vancouver and we moved on to Los Frailes.

Ensenada, MX November 2008

Ensenada

Hola, mi amigos. Como esta usted ? El barco de vela es bueno y nos vamous mucho gusto. (You didn’t expect English, did you?) In Ensenada, Mexican checking-in procedures truly are efficient. Only TWO hours for Tom in one small building and then Martin Pengelly and Pam passed Immigration, Customs, Harbour Captain and the Bank! The trip to Ensenada was part motor and sail to arrive at Baja Naval Marina and Boatyard--the most clean and organized yard we’ve ever seen. No wonder the mega power and sail yachts were there. If we had known about the quality of this yard, we would have hauled the boat here rather than in Vancouver. Best of all, everyday the workers stopped mid-day after lunch and played volleyball for an hour. Isn’t this something we should do during our work days by taking a ‘real” break? The central plaza had the military band practising every night playing the same tunes. They kept their automatic rifles strapped to their backs while they played either drums, tubas or trumpets. On the malecon just off the marina, families strolled in the evening while several streets up, the tourists were hustled. A very unique place from San Diego, we began to appreciate a different culture.

San Diego

The Santa Anna winds did come one morning through to evening and, like our Squamish winds, have a good blow even on land. Fortunalely, we are tied to the Police Dock. Foreign yachts must tie up at the Police Harbour dock which is just at the end of the Bay and on Shelter Island. Convenient by water, the walk to the first bus route must be 50 miles away (well maybe one mile). Our first day, some cruisers from Marina del Rey gave us a car ride to groceries and chandleries. So nice! This would have taken us days to figure out and to do. Most of the boats tying up here are offshore and are so well equipped. We feel very small but still have people approach us and recognize the CS 36 boat. This has happened all down the coast. We had no idea it was well known. Next to us is a young couple (30s) about to do the “South” –as in Cape Horn—in 6-8 months with few stops. On a home made nice-looking 39 ft boat, they have four solar panels and two wind vanes and big dreams. Apparently, they are locally known for many come to chat and look at the boat. He is known as Mr. Confidence and she is called Miss Super-anxious (She is new to sailing!). We will attend their Farewell Party (as we are moored next to them!). Also present are several vagrant boats. The Police (with guns) frequently chat to them and have them leave as the stay for all of us at this cheap moorage is limited to ten days. On another day, a fast above ground trolley train took us to a brand new marina (Pier 32) out at National city (a suburb) that was to be our new moorage. We’re glad we took the time to do this ride for we found it was not yet completed! We will move, instead, to the docks in a boat yard. Reasonable in price and close to facilities, we will restock, clean and sightsee. Martin Pengelly joins us Nov.1st and we will then finally start the “real” trip.

Dana Point/Oceanside

Another lovely sail in 10-15 kts had us head further East towards this very affluent area. Stunning Spanish style houses on the beaches and hills made these Orange County cities striking. Wanting to see the area more, a friendly bus driver suggested a bus route along the water! However, we took an inland one not realizing each way was 2 ½ hours. Huntington Beach was lovely. Santa Ana ( a bit rundown) and later San Clemente had most road and building signs in Spanish. This reminded us of Quebec and its French postings. The 40th Anniversary of Hobie Cats gave us an exciting show of 100 Hobie Cats racing. Still with hot weather, we heard of possible Santa Anna winds (off the desert) coming later. They never did this time.

Catalina Island

Sailing in 10-15kts in sun with the Monitor windvane made for an enjoyable 30 mile trip to this island of contrasts. Low red beige sandy hills with sage and cacti dotted over them, we see over 100 mooring buoys in the small, “quiet” anchorage of Catalina Harbour. Room for 200 to anchor or so says the guide book, we see room for perhaps thirty in this small Bay. Through a sandy half mile walk , we come to the other side of Two Harbours—more open to swell and stuffed with mooring buoys. A trendy dining room, outside bar, little grocery store and laundry make up what one cruiser told us was the only place twenty-five million people could go on the weekend. '

This Isthmus Cove is developed, busy with frequent passenger ferries unlike the “quiet” side of Cat harbour. Rates to permanently buy a buoy were $72,000.00for a 30 ft boat, $1,000,000.00 for over a 100ft. Owners can rent out the buoys or sublease them. The waiting list for sublease is 10 years, 15 years at Avalon, the “famous” anchorage. The island is actually beautiful but so cluttered with the buoys in the anchorages and hotels, condos and shops on the shore. Cruise ships come every two days to Avalon. With no cars, people buzz around in golf carts on a handful of skinny, little streets. So much for getting away from it all!

Marina del Rey, CA

Another short motor and then a beautiful sail in 15 kts in sun found us more excited to reach this part of the world than San Francisco. We’re not sure if it was because we were this far south or because we still had sun. The Marina holds 16 marinas and 9 yacht clubs but was easy to navigate. The transient dock is next to a small, family oriented park and is our cheapest moorage yet ($15.00 with electricity and showers/water). We weren’t interested in the Hollywood scene so visited the local suburbs.

A bus ride and we were at Venice Beach and further on, Santa Monica Pier and Beach. Tom was looking for bikinis on roller blades and Pam was searching for muscles at Muscle Beach. Pam found her muscles but Tom found his kind of people again. The board walk was very seedy with many tacky shops and fast food restaurants. The sandy beach was wonderful as temperatures have remained in the mid 80s. Santa Monica was a whole different place with 3rd St Promenade full of nice boutiques and the beach full of families.

Another, longer bus ride took us through Brentwood and BelAir to UCLA and then the Getty Centre. Perched on a hill, a tram ride takes you up to the Centre of five buildings surrounding marble courtyards. Each building has works of art from 1440 and on. Not being knowledgeable in art, we wondered how this would be but we quite enjoyed this visit. Sculptures, painting, ancient books make up quite a collection. (Many are on loan from the Canadian Museum in Ottawa!). Another bus ride and we enjoyed a jazz band in the park (sycamore trees, birds of paradise and scrawny junipers---that wasn’t the band).

The People

The People
Starting to understand why cruisers speak about the people they meet----the amazing to the crazy! Tom seems to attract those in need of medication or a drink; while Pam seems to seek out persons with more to offer. Pam finds them quite knowledgeable about Canada, well, at least about Canadian boating. Each hopes to get to the Pacific Northwest and rain doesn’t seem an issue. Tom’s group don’t seem to care and conversation tends to be more simplistic. His people are also well-tanned as they live outdoors a lot. Pam’s people are now wearing Fall clothes ---high leather boots and silk scarves with their shorts! One of Tom’s people told him the Homeless were the first to recycle bottles!
Most boaters give us helpful information about their favourite anchorages and ways to travel. A couple told us of a “beautiful” anchorage inside San Diego Harbour. The rats will swim out to your boat but they gave us directions on how to cut a plastic gallon milk bottle into a flange around the anchor line and we would then be fine. Another told us of how wonderful Mexico is in spite of “all the people murdered there”. She would not go there any more but said we would love it! One has told us we will now meet Mr. Rude as we are in Southern California. So far, we’ve met very friendly people---especially Tom’s friends.

9/23/2008 Oxnard

A beautiful, sunny downwind sail in 15-20kts past oil rigs took us to the smaller city of Oxnard in Channel Islands Harbour. Our first moorage was at a scrubby dock and bathrooms. Pam refused to shower in them. We moved to a totally different part of the world just across the channel with the more typical (clean) moorage. Our outlook to the town was completely different and we were reminded of how skewed one’s views can become when one only sees a narrow area. We strolled through West Marine, around the shops then out to an expansive beach called Hollywood Beach. The surf on the beach reminded us that we have dinghy landing skills to learn. No one could have landed a dinghy in that surf. This is a beautiful area with a heavy Spanish influence again. Property prices from Santa Barbara down reflect Vancouver prices making either this expensive or Vancouver very expensive.

9/11/2008 Santa Barbara

The guide books we are using say that once you round Point Conception you can ”throw off your heavy clothes”. Well, we did. And then worried the fog might freeze us! However, the sun came out and has stayed out. We motored then gently sailed into beautiful, well-kept Santa Barbara. Palm trees (that are natural to the area) and a 25 cent bus ride around town made this a delightful visit. The Spanish influence in architecture is very dominant here with beige buildings and arches and the red tile roofs. Beaches, surf and warmth (although not as hot as Vancouver was), we stayed for 6 days as it took that long to realize that the fog may not be a permanent force in our lives.

8/31/2008 Monterey, CA

Monterey (Oh,my,my,my!)
A lovely sail from Halfmoon Bay in SUN, then to Santa Cruz in winds of 25 in SUN gave us a chance to forget the fog as we sat on the beach watching surfers and strollers. The difference was striking from grey, noisy seas to the hot, splash of water on sand. Rafted next to a young 25 yr old who had just bought an older (delapitated) Columbia 34, we felt ourselves mellow as he and his buddy spent the after noon and evening smoking pot. His dream was to sail to Saltspring Island as he had spent two months there last year!

Across Monterey Bay on a brisk reach on beautiful blue water the next day, we squished into our slip right next to the Office of the Harbour Master (this one did not have a gun as did the Santa Cruz fellow). A great walking town with Cannery Row at one end and beaches all along its bay, we’ve settled in SUN and beaches for six days. Sadly, Richard left for New Zealand and we will miss him. His sailing in Britain has been on 58 ft, 65 ft and 79 ft boats but sailing on our small boat with his brother was special for us all.

A bus into Carmel by the Sea was well worth the short ride. This place has become a very upscale with poor Tom having to enter shops like Louis Vitton, Donetallo and the like. The beach was gorgeous and busy with families celebrating Labour Day. Our next stops are now San Simeon and Morro Bay.

8/20/2008 Ft. Bragg/Drakes Bay

Our third bar and third stop, we cleared Fort Bragg at noon. Of course, it was foggy. We left the locals grumbling about no rain for ages as well as no sun. Salmon fishing is closed this season so many fish boats are in port and businesses are shut. The transient moorage dock held many fish boats will never go to sea again. So different from Newport that had 24 hour tuna and crabbing with no apparent regard to restrictions. Their time will come. Forecast .for the next three days of winds was for 15-25 kt NW so, of course, we motored for 16 hr to Bodega Bay as winds were nil! Bodega Bay was in fog (that again) and we timed it to arrive after sunrise. Light south winds are predicted and we will wait. Twenty- five miles from Drakes Bay and then the same into San Francisco (so close but so unwise to rush).

8/23/2008 San Francisco

From Drakes Bay to the Golden Gate Bridge (9 days of sailing or motoring and 10 days of sitting at harbours), fog once again accompanied us as we saw only the bottom of the towers of the Bridge. With one freighter in sight, we realized we had little traffic to contend with in what could be busy traffic lanes. And then an amazing feeling to glide under this bridge in your own boat! We began to see the whole Bridge and realized we were really here.
Sausalito became our new home as we sat in SUNSHINE for many days. Bus trips into San Francisco to see Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf as well as strolls along Sausalito’s shores became the events of the day. A Jazz and Blues festival on the grass, not far from our boat, brought out all the locals one evening. Blankets on the grass and wine on makeshift tables were the way for close to 300 people. The other sailboat we had met in Newport had arrived one day ahead of us having chosen to motor that last day. We meet them for coffee and both recounted a windy sail around Cape Mendocino. They fly home to Vancouver for several weeks so it may be in Mexico when we meet again. Funny how these “strangers” are ones we look forward to connecting with again. Perhaps this is the way it goes.

08/16/2008 Left Newport, OR

Nice Sailing...But fog again as we left Newport in a windless sea. Motoring for four hours, we were delighted to settle into winds of 15-20 kt NW. Whales passed us in the distance and then one surprised us to breach before us five feet from the side of the boat. The camera of course would have caught the famous black dot of this once in a life-time closeness. A wonderful sail under a poled out jib in sun had us thinking "so this is what it's about".
Our tuna fishing line of 300 lb test went out, jerked and produced a spring salmon of 20 lb! No chance this fish would break the line. Our gourmet chef, Cam, prepared a wonderful barbequed salmon later that night. We settled into our night watches with winds of 10-15 kt and a lumpy sea. The next day gave us fog again and winds of 10-15 NW. Our speed was good and we were definitely bundled up in our full floater suits (Our dress attire for every day). We settled into our first night out from Newport.

Our second night out from Newport brought fog and slowly growing winds as we prepared to round Cape Mendocino from 10 miles out. The forecast was for 5-10Kt NW. However, we headed 30 miles out as winds were obviously building. Sail was reduced to the smallest the headsail has ever been (one third) as we faced high and confused seas. The Monitor windvane worked hard as our eyes got bigger and bigger and so did the seas! The true wind was 40 kt. and lasted for about 6 hr. We were safe but how could this have happened? Aren't we novices to be gently lulled into downwind sailing! Or is it because we are novices, it did. Actually, we feel it was unforecast winds and that staying in close among undersea valleys and mountains would have been worse. We stood our watches; however, still felt tired and decided to rest at Fort Bragg, Noyo River, California. Nice sailing through the rest of the night and then eventually found no wind. Would the motor start? Of course not! Bleeding it etc.didn't work so we called the Coast Guard for a tow from two miles out. The tow was so disciplined and smooth that we did not feel we were under tow. Identified the motor problem later as a fuel blockage from junk in the tank (which had been polished!) and its now fixed. Tied up safely now at midnight, we sure had a good sleep.

08/10/2008 Newport, OR

A beginning light sail from Westport, Grays Harbour in our familiar gray was promising a forecast winds of 15kt NW for the day. But not for this day as the wind literally stopped. The trip became a motor for 24 hr in an almost flat sea. We gained ground but did not want this to be the way we would travel in the future. At least we were getting practice with our night watches! The bar at Newport, Yaquina entrance was almost flat and quite easy to cross. SW winds came in as did some light rain for two days and now the promise is for wind of NW 15-20 and more. Our little weather maps show wind and the VHF speaks of it also. So we will leave Monday morning after having had a good look at Newport.
Saturday was the weekly market with some of the freshest produce ever. The bread lady is also the attraction as the line-up for her lasted the whole day. Cam and Richard visited the Aquarium and spoke well of it. Tom and Pam rode the bus loop twice! They missed the first bus and had to do the long route. However, they got to know all the locals (and their problems) who routinely take this bus. Commercial tuna fishing and crabbing is a major group of industries here with steady tuna charters also active. .It is especially nice to meet the other people who are also “heading south”. Four boats are waiting for the change in wind and will leave at various times.
So now to wait for our winds.

08/03/2008 Port Angeles, WA

After crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca 3 times (long story!) to get here, our travelers arrived and ran the gauntlet of US Customs and Border folk to get permitted and cleared into the States.

They were met by CS friends, Don and Mary Ellen Spinar and Gary and Jan Kohler (Catalina 34) who arrived at the dock with a cooler of frozen meat and a case of wine for the journey.

After stowing the provisions we headed uptown to find lunch and the customs office and then visited the local Safeway for perishables. We then returned to the boat to sample the wine and inspect the boat and all it's new gadgets and gear.

Tom and Pam are accompanied on this leg of the trip by Tom's brother Richard and their friend Cam from Blue Water Cruising Club.

08/07/2008 Grays Harbor

Fog lifted in the Juan de Fuca so the sun could warm us up to10 C while we knew Vancouver was 30 C that day. We basked in 15 C as we passed Tatoosh Island and rounded Cape Flattery in about 12 kt of wind. We had left Port Angeles that morning, topped up with fuel and water at Neah Bay and decided to do our first overnight to Grays Harbour, Westport. The wind would be about 15 kt tonight and a good start for us to learn about watches. Strong current with us and we were extatic with our 6.5-7 kt speed in a well loaded boat. (Of course, its a CS). At night as the wet darkness arrived we watched the wind drop to under 10 and eventually our speed to 3.5 (now against current). However, we were committed to reach Grays Harbour and do the first bar. We found we could all sleep on our shifts and the roll of the boat was gentle as were the winds and seas. By morning, it was time for a drifter! What! We had prepped ourselves for crashing seas, spume blown into our faces and tying each other in the cockpit. Instead, we were given great practice and time to settle into the trip. Now onwards to Newport. Tom and Pam